It's base was about 3' x 5' and one corner simply lifted off the plate.Д¬etus advertises that it's printer does not have to be leveled. I also had a failure of my first somewhat larger object to adhere to the build plate. I do have a reel of ABS and plan to use it soon.

I also have a Cetus and, so far, I have only tried printing with PLA. So far the PEI seems to be working and once it has cooled down the parts are fairly easy to remove.ДЄlmost forgot, my printer is not in an enclosure but is in a warm office with little air movement.

ABS on BuildTak was sticking almost too well, it was a bear to remove the print and the reason I ended up destroying it. Try cleaning the surface with denatured alcohol and if that doesn't do it try acetone. The first layer needs to be smashed onto the build surface, if it's not being laid down oval it will never stick. The single most important item I discovered with any surface is bed leveling and nozzle height. This also allows me to quickly switch back and forth between the original BuildTak surface and the glass plate with PEI. I ended up using glass with PEI, printed a spacer that clips above the Z axis limit switch that raises the home position just enough to add the glass to the bed. Think heating the bed to 90 and the acetone also contributed to the destruction of the BuildTak. Problem was I ended up destroying the BuildTak removing the finished prints. General feelings are to use PEI on glass for the surface but I was able to get good adhesion on the original BuildTak surface by cleaning it with acetone. I didn't care for the idea of using tape, hair spray or glue and was determined to get it working with either BuildTak or PEI. Just went through this with my Maker Select.

Cetus3d heated bed